![]() The mythical duo formed by Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dalí, driven by a pungent taste for scandal and artistic provocation, is highlighted in a room dedicated to her, revealing the iconic ” lobster dress ” or the famous ” shoe hat ”. The ” Pagan ” collection is a nod to Antiquity in reference to Ovid’s metamorphoses, the ” Butterfly ” collection is an ode to insects (source of inspiration shared with surrealist artists), the ” Music ” collection from 1939 seems to endlessly stretch and lengthen the silhouette of the modern woman. The exhibition continues with the thematic collections that Elsa Schiaparelli initiates alone around the sources of inspiration that are dear to her: Italian antiquity, nature and music. She inspires Man Ray just as much and becomes his model: many photographs testify to this fruitful complicity. She develops her acute sense of detail through models largely inspired by surrealist aesthetics, diverting the most astonishing patterns and materials: transparent plastics, crayfish-shaped buttons, ” drawer pockets “, lobsters. Then she inaugurated a rich series of collaborations which illuminated a constellation of artists: thus Elsa Triolet, Jean Cocteau and Salvador Dalí for her collections of fashion and accessories. A true mentor,Įlsa Schiaparelli then made sweaters with trompe-l’oeil motifs, an idea as brilliant as it was radical, and parallel to this awakened her taste for Art Deco, notably in contact with Jean Dunand who designed for her a refined dress whose folds were painted with lacquer. The artist’s awakening to fashion and modernity is explored as well as the decisive role of the couturier Paul Poiret, whom she met in 1922. The introductory room, a spectacular, immersive space, plunges the visitor into a total environment dedicated to the drawings from Schiaparelli’s collections preserved by the hundreds: they highlight the extent of the work of the seamstress. Irrigating the itinerary of the exhibition, these artistic themes punctuate the stages of Elsa Schiaparelli’s life. accomplices, function as the sensitive sources of his creativity. Dodging the heaviness of a social environment, she offers her the freedom to explore forms and inspirations, those she builds with passion and humor with her artist friends, many of whom consider her to be an artist herself.Ĭombining thematic and chronological approaches, the exhibition is organized on two levels around key moments in the work of Elsa Schiaparelli, linking together the most remarkable collections, from year to year, some of which are in connection with the artists. Raised in a humanist and scholarly environment, Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) embraced fashion, never denying her deep fascination for art and for artists, while becoming as much a creator as a woman of image, having fun haute couture like a kaleidoscope, evening dresses, city outfits, sports models, accessories, and perfumes. In our contemporary era, which conceives the close dialogue between fashion and art as obvious, more than ever Elsa Schiaparelli seems of our time, as an “ inspired ” seamstress as she liked to define herself. ![]() We felt helped, encouraged, beyond the material and boring reality of making a dress to sell. “ Working with artists like Bébé Bérard, Jean Cocteau, Salvador Dalí, Vertès and Van Dongen, with photographers like Honingen-Huene, Horst, Cecil Beaton and Man Ray, was exhilarating. Schwarzman fashion galleries in a poetic and immersive scenography entrusted to Nathalie Crinière. The exhibition is presented in the Christine & Stephen A. ![]() ![]() Daniel Roseberry, artistic director of the Schiaparelli house since 2019, interprets the legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli. This major retrospective also highlights the heritage of the Schiaparelli style with silhouettes interpreted by famous couturiers paying homage to it: Yves Saint Laurent, Azzedine Alaïa, John Galliano, Christian Lacroix. “Shocking ! The surreal worlds of Elsa Schiaparelli’ brings together 520 works including 272 costumes and fashion accessories, set against 248 paintings, sculptures, jewellery, perfume bottles, ceramics, posters and photographs signed by the greatest names of the time, from Man Ray to Salvador Dalí, from Jean Cocteau to Meret Oppenheim or Elsa Triolet. ![]()
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